Trad and multi-pitch climbing in Suesca
Suesca is famous for its cracks: almost half of its more than 400 documented routes are traditional, and its big draw — which no other Colombian crag has at this scale — is the unbolted multi-pitches, up to 80 m and several pitches, on sandstone with dihedrals, roofs and cracks of every size. This page explains the Suesca style before you pick a route.
Updated: October 2026. Grades in the Yosemite Decimal System. Check the state of each route and its anchors at the entrance before climbing it.
Trad, sport and mixed in Suesca
Traditional: there are no bolts on the route: the leader places their own protection — cams, nuts, slings — in the cracks, and the second collects it. It is the park's original style and the one that defines its cracks.
Sport: the route is bolted and climbed with quickdraws. It exists in Suesca, up to 5.13, but it is not the quiet majority it looks like: the park was born traditional.
Mixed: the typical Suesca case: bolts on part of the route and stretches that ask for gear. If your plan says "sport" and you arrive without a rack, you can get stuck halfway. Practical rule: in Suesca, the rack always comes, even if the route is advertised as sport.
Why Suesca grades feel stiff
Route databases warn about it plainly: old-school crag, mixed protection, little route information, stiff grades. Add the rock: sandstone with good friction in general, but with patina patches — a smooth oxide layer — that raise the real difficulty, and with upper pitches towards the top where there is less protection, weaker rock and vegetation. A Suesca 5.10 is not a gym 5.10: drop a grade on your first visit and ask at the entrance.
Classic multi-pitches
| Route | Zone | Grade | Height / pitches |
|---|---|---|---|
| CAEC | CAEC | 5.6 | 80 m, 3 pitches — the beginner multi-pitch |
| LP | LP | 5.8 | Up to 5 pitches, one of the longest routes in the park |
| La Rana Reniega | Sueños de un Seductor | 5.8 | 80 m |
| Traversos Lochos | Sueños de un Seductor | 5.8 | 80 m, 3 pitches |
| Suerte | El Diedro Rosado | 5.8 | 60 m |
| Meandros | El Diedro Rosado | 5.8 | 80 m |
The usual descent is walking from the top: allow time and daylight for the walk-off, not just for the climb. On a multi-pitch, the day is planned backwards: start time, summit time and return to the railway before the afternoon fades.
What rack to bring
For a trad and multi-pitch day in Suesca, the base is: helmet always, harness, 60 m dynamic rope (for almost everything; confirm the route length before leaving), quickdraws, a set of cams from small to large, a set of nuts, long slings for anchors, anchor material and chalk. For wide cracks, add large pieces. For pure sport, quickdraws are enough — but bring at least a few medium pieces in case the route turns out mixed.
If it is your first traditional multi-pitch, do not debut alone: go with a guide or with someone who has already done the route. Crack technique — hand, fist and foot jams — is learned on the rock, not on paper, and in trad the cost of a badly placed piece is paid by the leader.
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Frequently asked questions
Can I climb in Suesca with sport gear only?
Partly yes, but not everywhere: many Suesca routes are mixed and ask for gear between the bolts. The practical rule is to bring a rack even if you come for sport.
What is the best multi-pitch to start with in Suesca?
CAEC (5.6, 80 m, 3 pitches): the most travelled route by the schools and the park's beginner multi-pitch.
Why do people say Suesca grades are stiff?
Because it is an old-school crag: mixed protection, little route information, patina on stretches and upper pitches with less protection. Drop a grade on your first visit.
Do you rappel down or walk off?
On the classic multi-pitches, the usual descent is walking from the top. Allow daylight and time for the return to the railway.
Complete guide: Suesca climbing · Zones: Suesca climbing zones · For beginners: Suesca climbing for beginners · Practical guide: Practical guide